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We regularly share our latest thinking on emerging topics and ideas in the worlds of business, society and the environment, along with our weekly sustainability digest, Friday 5.

Beauty’s ageing dilemma

7 March, 2025

The TikTok explosion of multi-step skincare routines might seem like unambiguously good news for the beauty industry. Social media has turned cleansers, serums, creams and peels into must-haves. But the virality has taken an uncomfortable turn, with dermatologists raising serious concerns about the dangers of TikTok’s younger cohort of users using high-strength skincare products. 

Whilst responsibility runs wide, Sephora is at the centre of eye-catching and damaging headlines, with the new sensation dubbed ‘Sephora Kids’. When a brand finds itself on the brink of a potential reputational crisis, it must take action. Popular brands, including Drunk Elephant, have responded by launching skincare lines specifically for children and others have acknowledged the issue and made statements of intent. But critics have deemed this performative, demanding more stringent guardrails for the industry,  and now a California legislator has introduced a bill, which if passed would ban the sale of potent and harsh ingredients to under 18s.  

We’ve seen this play out before. The food and beverage industry spent years profiting from young consumers, only to face tough restrictions on marketing unhealthy products to children. If concerns around young people and skincare keep growing, beauty could be next in line for scrutiny. 

For skincare brands, the message is clear: don’t wait to be called out. Clearer product positioning, stronger age guidance, and responsible marketing will help businesses stay on the right side of the debate. Because once a brand gets caught up in a parental panic, it’s tough to scrub that reputation clean. 

By Budd Nicholson

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